Enjoying Route 66 in Missouri and Kansas
Part 4: Cruising the Main Street of America...
Into The Blue is about finding joy in simple pleasures. One of those pleasures is a nostalgic road trip with a side of Chappell Roan thrown in.
Note: This is part 4 of a series on Route 66. Previous posts provided a thematic overview and practical considerations for a 66 road trip, as well as an in-depth look at the Illinois leg of 66. This post explores the Missouri and Kansas section. Next month, we will cover Oklahoma, Texas, and New Mexico.
If you ever plan to motor west
Travel my way, the highway that’s the best
Get your kicks on Route 66
Bobby Troup, (Get Your Kicks on) Route 66
After Route 66 cuts through 300 miles of small town farmland in Illinois, it winds its way for another 300 in Missouri and then a short dogleg through Kansas. As Chicago marks the start of the Mother Road in Illinois, so St. Louis inaugurates this next leg of your journey through Americana.
My wife, pup, and I made this journey in the spring in our camper van, and it was a trip for the ages. Each segment brought new vistas, new experiences, new joys. Missouri and Kansas were no different.
You will find local folks and towns passionate about preserving and building on the legacy of Route 66. This is perhaps the greatest joy of a 66 road trip. But what really marks out this segment as unique is the hauntingly beautiful terrain of the Ozarks, with ghostly white sandstone rock formations jutting out from the earth all along the roadway.
Missouri – Gateway to the West
The Gateway Arch in St. Louis signals that you are entering new territory on your Route 66 journey. And indeed, the flat cornfields of Illinois are about to give way to the rugged and rural Ozarks for most of this next segment.
But first you must navigate hectic St. Louis. If you haven’t visited this city before, you owe it to yourself to check it out. At the least, make time to tour Gateway Arch National Park downtown. And if you’ve been before, you already know you need to make time to hit at least one of the amazing local BBQ joints. Gems close to the route include Bogart’s Smokehouse, Adam’s Smokehouse, and Dalie’s Smokehouse. Also, don’t leave the area without treating yourself at the 66 icon Ted Drewes Frozen Custard.
After you leave St. Louis, the pace slows down and you can take a breath. Interstate 44 has replaced 66 in Missouri, but you can take sections of the historic route through a lot of the state parallel to 44. The natural beauty of the region is striking, and you will pass near Mark Twain National Forest, Meramec State Park, and other outdoor havens. We were focused on seeing Route 66-specific sites, which left us agonizing over all the missed camping, hiking, and kayaking opportunities. If you can build some extra time in your schedule, I’d highly recommend stopping to enjoy nature here. We definitely plan to come back for this!
The Route 66 sites themselves are primarily concentrated in the northern and southern segments. You could make some time by staying on 44 between St. Robert and Springfield (but someone tell me if you’ve found jewels in between that we overlooked). In the northern leg, most 66 travelers hit Route 66 State Park and Meramec Caverns, but there are also a number of cool old motels, outposts, service stations, and murals. And if you like high kitsch, you cannot possibly bypass Uranus Fudge Factory.
Now, the true heart of restored Route 66 in Missouri is the 70-mile southern stretch between Springfield and Joplin. This area, along with the adjacent Kansas leg, is one of the best sections on the entire 2,448 miles from Illinois to California, so save lots of time to enjoy it at a leisurely pace. Here you will find restored service stations and motels, ruins, old sections of 66, original bridges, and more, with a concentration of sites in Ash Grove and Carthage.
Kansas – America’s Heartland
By the time you hit Kansas, you’ve left the Ozarks for the flatlands that are here fertile but will get progressively browner in your near future. Old 66 cuts a quick 13-mile slice through the southeastern tip of the state between Galena and Baxter Springs, but don’t skip it for the main interstate. If you do, you’ll be sorry. The small towns on this little stretch have gone all in, and it is packed to the gills will fun little 66 sites, including Cars-themed stuff the kids will love. Now we had no kids onboard, and we still loved this area!
Missouri and Kansas Highlights
So what are the must-see sites on Route 66 in Missouri and Kansas? Well, below were our favorites, but one size definitely does not fit all. I recommend you do your own research and find what most interests you. Also, check out what other folks have to say. For example, travel writer extraordinaire Taryn Shorr-McKee has great itineraries for this part of the route in her article on 66 in 417 magazine. Bon voyage!
Adam’s Smokehouse, St. Louis, MO. This little BBQ joint is not so easy to get to, but it is totally worth it. The BBQ is absolutely world class, the owners are gems, and they also have top-notch plant-based BBQ. My mouth is watering just thinking about it!
Ted Drewes Frozen Custard, St. Louis. A Route 66 classic!
Murals, Cuba. This little town has some very nice murals throughout the town.
Vernelle’s Motel, Newburg. The owners are lovely folks who have bought an old 66 motel (Vernelle’s) and the adjacent iconic John’s Modern Cabins (now dilapidated). They are in the process of building out a full-service RV park here. For vanlifers and RVers, they are part of the Harvest Host network. This place was one of the highlights of our entire trip, because they have a section of the original 66 highway on the property and you can spend the night on it in your rig. So cool!
Uranus Fudge Factory, St. Robert. Slogan – “The best fudge comes from Uranus.” If you have kids, you pretty much have to stop here. Or if you are a dad. Big facility with amazingly awesome neon signs.
Route 66 Car Museum, Springfield. There are a lot of cool auto museums on Route 66, but this one has an original Batmobile from the 1960’s TV show. Need I say more.
Gary’s Gay Parita/Old Sinclair Gas Station, Ash Grove. First off, part of Chappel Roan’s Hot To Go music video was filmed here.1 Route 66 has a multitude of cool old service stations, but none are more lovingly restored than this one. There is also a museum and a gift shop run by an affable 66 aficionado with whom you will want to chat all day. Nearby is an original section of 66, old bridge, and ruins of another service station.
Boots Court Motel and Visitor’s Center, Carthage. This is a beautifully restored retro motel. Don’t miss stopping in the Visitor’s Center next door. The people there are so friendly, and they have perhaps the nicest gift store on all of Route 66.
Cars on the Route, Galena, KS. Fun old service station with old vehicles and Cars movie-themed stuff. A very fun stop for kids and kids at heart.
Kansas Route 66 Visitors Center, Baxter Springs. Lovingly restored service station.
What About You?
Have you explored Route 66 in Missouri and Kansas? What was your experience? What were your favorite spots? What did we miss? Please share with us in the comments.
A Short Meditation
Let the heavens be glad, and let the earth rejoice,
and let them say among the nations, “The LORD reigns!”
Let the sea roar, and all that fills it;
let the field exult, and everything in it!
Then shall the trees of the forest sing for joy
before the LORD, for he comes to judge the earth.
Oh give thanks to the LORD, for he is good;
for his steadfast love endures forever!
After David had led the people in bringing the Ark of the Covenant into Jerusalem (see the Short Meditation from last week), he appointed priests to sing this psalm to the Lord. The psalm enjoins Israel to praise God for his faithfulness (vv. 1-22) and then calls all people everywhere to join in (vv. 23-30).
But the psalm doesn’t stop there. It calls on all of nature, the heavens, the waters, the land and forests, all the creatures of air, sea, and land, to join in too (vv. 31-34). It calls on all creation to sing for joy to God because he rules with justice, with goodness, with love that knows no limits.
Now, with the clanging of worldly injustice, evil, and hate at such a pitch around us, it can be tough to get in tune with the song of joy. When we get in our head and consider the improbability of trees and squirrels joining us in song, it can be tougher still to catch the spirit.
But the truth is, the trees and squirrels are already singing. The heavens are already declaring God’s glory. The rocks are already crying out, “Hosanna, blessed is he who comes in the name of the Lord!” We’re the only ones who, senses dulled by unbelief and distraction, remain silent.
Step outside, take a walk in nature, and listen with your heart. Really listen. There it is. The sun and the birds, the oceans and the fish, the trees and the squirrels are indeed singing for joy to their Lord, and ours.
Won’t you join in?
Chappell Roan, aka Kayleigh Amstutz, hails from nearby Willard, Missouri.